Sep 29, 2015 - Used Computer Replacement Guide (updated 2/14/16). Immobilizer Keys (Need PIN CODE Tool) - had to call. Jaguar SType. Immobilizer Key Programming T300 Worked (10 PATS Security Access Wait Time). The Jaguar S-Type was a model of an executive car that debuted at the 1998 Birmingham. For the 2003 model year, the Jaguar S-type was given a six-speed. The 2004 diesel saw the introduction of a 6-speed manual transmission; it was. Spotless example of the ever popular jaguar s type rare manual version with six speed gear box bodywork is finished in metallic grey whoch has been beautifully kept, alloy wheels are the upgraded sport version which are still sold today.

Ro500 answered 9 years ago I HAVE HAD A SIMILIAR ISSUE WITH CAR THAT I AM WORKING ON. CAR CAME IN WITH SAME ISSUE BATTERY DEAD. BOOST, CAR STARTS THEN DIES. CHECKED CHARGING SYSTEM ALTERNATOR OUTPUT WAS 12.5 WHICH IS TOO LOW. BATTERY WAS FROZEN DUE TO COLD TEMP. GOT ALTERNATOR REBUILT AND INSTALLED BRAND NEW INTERSTATE BATTERY. CAR WORKED FINE FOR A MONTH OR SO AND IS BACK TO ME AGAIN.

I CHECKED THE BATTERY DRAIN AND COULD SEE CLEARLY THAT SOMETHING WAS DRAINING THE BATTERY AT A VERY RAPID RATE. DEFINITELY AN ELECTRICAL PROBLEM IN THE SYSTEM. DIAGNOSING AND FINDING OUT COULD TAKE HOURS. SO I INSTALLED A BATTERY PROTECTOR WHICH WILL CUT OFF POWER TO THE CAR IF IT DETECTS BATTERY GETTING TOO WEAK TO START. WILL SEE HOW THIS WORKS, AS THIS WILL ALWAYS KEEP THE BATTERY ACID FROM FREEZING SINCE IT WILL NOT LET IT DRAIN BELOW CERTAIN VOLTAGE. IF THIS SOLVES THE PROBLEM THEN IT IS FOR SURE WISE TO INVEST LOTS OF HOURS INTO TROUBLESHOOTING THE ELECTRICAL ISSUE.WHICH ARE NOT EASY TO DIAGNOSE IN THESE CARS EVEN THOUGH I AM AN ELECTRICAL ENGINEER. TRY THE BATTERY PROTECTOR.

IT IS ONLY $69.99 AND PRETTY EASY TO INSTALL. JaguarK answered 8 years ago I purchased my 2000 S type in March 2010, one week later, i noticed it would often slip while driving(RPM's would rare but wouldn't move),and it would take like 7 Second to go in gear when shiftig.

Two weeks later I park on a very 'SLIGHT INCLINE' without using parking break. I ended up breaking the gear shifter trying to get the car into gear($1,000) i figured this was ok because when i replaced the and shifter and cable, it stoped the slipping thing. About 2 months later my check engine came on and i took it to FireStone and they let me that it was just a broken sensor and it was no big deal but recommended i replace it. When I purchaced my car it never had the cd magizine, so last week got a CD/DVD player in installed( mistake #1). Everything seemed to be working fine. Two days later i drove from Los Angeles to Riverside (mistake #2). About 30mins later i got back in my car and the battery light was on.

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I tryed to get to the Auto Zone less the one mile away and evey single sensor came on in the car and it shut down. AAA came can let me know that it was my battery and alternator. The car had to be towed. I put it in the shop next day, they replaced the alternator did some electrical work an its been back and forth 3 time because they can not figure out the CORRECT problem. I also heard that the car ONLY TAKES A SPECIFIC battery! Could that be the problem?

This car is costing me WAAAAAAY too much$$$$ Can this cars ever be fixed 100%? Fannandr answered 7 years ago I have a 2002 XKR, a 2002 X-Type and a 2000 S-Type. All seem to have quirks but all great cars. I found on my 2000 S-type there is a switch in the truck for the trunk light. This is a button (push in style of switch) and it had broke where it wouldn't reach the area it needed to depress enough to turn off. No one ever thinks to check their truck.

So my battery would frequently end up dead. Since I do not drive this car daily. It became a major frustration.

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I finally found this issue one day. I was going to replace the switch but I ended up drilling a hole and using a ford style rubber front hood adjuster and I fitted it to the lower area where the truck light switch contacts. This depresses the button fully and turns off my trunk light.

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My battery has been up since then!!!:-) the modification looks like it came from the factory that way. So all is good. I am currently working through the no power to the radio issue and its missing on cyclinders 3 and 4 but im sure that is the valve cover gasket/coil pack issue. Habenero34 answered 5 years ago My 2003 XKR recently began having problems with Navigation/Clock (stopped working) and the radio became intermittent. This was several weeks ago - this morning the car was dead - no lights - nothing.

I was able to jump the car and took it to a Jaguar specialty shop (very honest). The checked the system and came back output was too low. Recommended an alternator - this will cost me around $600 for an OEM. I got a quote from another shop priced at $1100.

The other shop made a comment that the Alternators in these type of cars rarely go bad. A little nervous getting this done later in the week.

Jaguar S Type Problems

RDebeaux answered 4 years ago The troubleshooting process is very simple, BUT; time consuming. You will need: A multimeter. A fuse puller. (a second person is helpful when you can't see the meter.

Everything is about CURRENT. Voltage is the carrier, but current does the work. Current is measured in AMPERES. In small measurements, it is called milliamperes. You need to charge the battery fully.

Get distilled water and fill up the cells, there are plenty of you tube videos. What you will be looking for is a parasitic drain.

Your battery powers everything. Then it is replenished by the battery. Ok, once you have the items mentioned above, you need to take a few precautions.

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Wear insulating gloves. Wear eye protection. Bypass door switches (so the car doesn't ring chimes and use current and mess up your readings) Ok, Voltage is measured in PARALLEL. This is when you take your meter, select DC Voltage, and place the red lead on the positive terminal, and the black lead on the black terminal. Because your meter is on the same places the car gets it's power from, this is parallel.

Current on the other hand is measured in SERIES. Place your meter's selection on AMPEREs. (some meters have an extra connection for the lead when using for high amp circuits) That is like a chain of events. One thing is connected to another thing, then to another and so on. You MUST break the chain of electrical connection and place the meter on amperes in that break. So, disconnect the negative lead on the battery, and place your meters leads red to the cable you disconnected, and black to the battery's terminal. You are now in series with the battery.

Assuming that nothing is turned on in the car, and everything is working like a charm, you should read about.050 amps. Or 50 milliamps. Some may be higher, some may be lower, but that is a standard to go. If you are reading a larger amount of amps, like 1 or 2 apmps or more, then you have a drain on your system that WILL eventually drain your battery. The trick now is, pull EVERY fuse one at a time and replace it. Once you pull the fuse that cause the drain to stop, ( reading on meter drops to.050 or so), then you have found the affected circuit with the component draining your power.

If that circuit has multiple items on it, then you will need a schematic to see what all is powered. In order to see the steps I am taking about, please goto Good luck. If you are not comfortable using the steps I listed, please get someone who is. Richierat answered 4 years ago THIS CAR TAKES A SPECIAL COMBINATION DEEP CYCLE AND STARTING BATTERY NOTHING ELSE, GO ONLINE PRICE THEM ABOUT 300.00 GET THE PROPER SIZE, PUT IT IN AND PROBLEM SOLVED. AN ALTERNATIVE IS TO BUY A BATTERY CUT OFF SWITCH ABOUT 100.00, IT WILL CUT THE POWER OFF AT 11.8 VOLTS, YOU WILL LOOSE YOUR ALARM, BUT NOT YOUR STARTING ABILITY, IT ATTACHES TO THE BATTERY POLES AND TO TURN IT OFF YOU STEP ON THE BRAKES AND PUT THE LIGHTS ON AND OFF THEN THE IGNITION WILL COME BACK ON AVAILABLE AT GEMPLERS.COM.